DOUBLE
TT BRITISH KENNELS
Puppy Packet
Written by SHARP RETRIEVERS,INC.
I. Puppy Information
II. Health Information
III. Diet
IV. Crate Training Rules
V. Schedule
VI. Commands
VII. Field Work
VIII. Do's and Don'ts
IX. Contact Information
I. Puppy information
Name__________________________
DOB __________________________
Sire:____________________________
Dam: ___________________________
Breeder:Double TT British Kennels
Delivered to ______________________
II. Health Information
Health Records enclosed
Any additional comments about puppy_______________________________________________________________________________________________
III. Diet
We feed Proplan Performance to all our dogs in professional
training including puppies. At home we recommend starting three
times a day around 1cup dry each time- ask Haynes at the time of
pick-up. You can also buy the puppy formula which is around the
same ratio protein and fat.
It is a whole chicken and rice food . If you choose to change food
please make sure the first ingredient is whole chicken and transition
the old food to avoid any upset stomachs.
Do not feed table scraps or too many treats to avoid weight gain.
You need to keep up with their growth so keep checking to make sure
you can feel their ribs and they are not getting too thin. Also
follow supplements recommended by Double TT in contract.
IV. Crate Training Rules-
ONLY use a plastic vari-kennel crate
Always let out first by carrying them or walk briskly
on leash to the designated area.
(Eventually, they will learn where that area is so they can walk
themselves.) Do not let them run around the house have control from
the time you open the crate.
" If they do not go to the bathroom when you let them out ALWAYS
put them back in the crate before giving them a chance to be loose
in the house. Try again when they cry to go out.
" Always feed in the crate. (Supply water outside of the crate
so you can regulate how much and when they get it. Pull water supply
after 7 PM unless it is hot and/or they have been playing hard.)
" Tell them "kennel-up" every time they go in, even
if you have to help them. After a brief training session you can
use the hot dogs to give an extra positive reinforcement on the
command.
" They will need to go to the bathroom after waking up, eating,
drinking and playing.
" Signs of having to go are circling sniffing, and going to
another room. ALWAYS have eyes on them in the house. If you can't
watch them they MUST GO IN THE CRATE!
" If you have ANY accidents inside or outside of crate, do
not scold just pick up and take outside. Try to pick up in the mid
stream so they can finish in the right place - Use Nature's Miracle
in all places where there is an accident. It can be purchased at
Petsmart or Lion Country Supply.
" Make sure the crate is only big enough for them to turn around
and lay down comfortably. Too big- means they will continue to go
in the corner. It must be a plastic crate that you can purchase
at Petsmart or Wal-Mart. The plastic makes them feel safe and not
exposed like the wire.
" When they do go outside or in the designated area always
praise them if you can- even if it just verbal.
" Unless you have seen them go to the bathroom recently, and
they are barking in the crate ALWAYS give them a positive response
by letting them out. If they just went and you are too busy to watch
them in the house, tap the top of the crate and say "quiet".
Barking must only be used to go to the bathroom. Not to play. You
control playtime -not them. That is why by placing the crate in
a central part of the house you make them feel included in the family
even if they are in the crate. When they first come home you are
going to get some crying this is the first time away from their
littermates. Don't give in. This will end and it will become a wonderful
tool for training.
" There is no need to place a blanket in the crate at the risk
of them chewing it. This also makes more of an impression if they
have an accident in the crate so they don't do it again. You can
put a nylabone for chewing but we do not recommend toys that can
be torn, stay away from rawhide as well.
V. Schedule-This is an example, you will
have to adjust to your own schedule to make it work for everyone.
6 - 6:30 AM Take out of crate to go to the bathroom immediately.
Rapid response is beneficial. This may be the time to pick them
up until they are a little older. After they have done both and
had some water you can return to crate to be fed.
If you are leaving for the day make sure they are
in a fenced in exercise pen with shade and water outside on concrete
or patio stones, no sand, grass, dirt or pebbles Otherwise they
can hold it in the crate for no more than 2 hours. Every month of
age is how many hours they can hold it. One month puppy one hour…
As they get older it can increase. Maximum being 6 hours at 6 months
old.
12-1 Let out of crate to go to the bathroom. After
doing both and getting water and exercise take back to crate to
feed 1 cup dry food.
Again same rules apply to crate training. Keep an
eye on water intake. If they do not go before eating make sure you
let out right after eating- they will let you know. If you have
them out in the house playing with a chew toy just keep track of
time. Think ahead of them for awhile so you can take them out before
they have to go. Eventually by always going outside they will quickly
learn it is the only place to go. They will not be allowed to look
at the inside of the house as a place to go to the bathroom.
6-7 Let out to go to the bathroom and water. Feed
last meal for the day. Remember NO WATER after 7-8 unless they have
been playing hard and showing signs of thirst.
10-11 PM Before going to bed make sure they have
used the bathroom. In the beginning you may have some nighttime
visits.
VI. Commands
" HERE
" SIT
" KENNEL-UP
" LEAVE IT
" OFF
" Use small bits of hot dogs in a plastic ziploc bag in your
pocket. Only used in moderation to get attention by young pups.
At this age they need food rewards. Please do not let this be a
part of their normal diet.
" WHOEVER BEGINS THE COMMAND MUST BE THE ONE TO COMPLETE IT!
" Dogs like to establish who the alpha is in the "pack".
So make sure that everyone is above them. These are not head strong
pups so be gentle just show them who is in charge.
" Simple things like you walking in the house first, eating
your dinner before giving them their food. It sounds silly but in
some situations they try to rule the roost. Just by working with
them 5 minutes a day walking on the lead and doing some sits and
downs can make a big difference. Life is not all play. They need
to understand when you put the leash on it is business.
HERE
At this age you can only begin a short distance away. Have them
on a leash. Let them go out at the end of the lead and begin to
call them by saying their name and "here". Get down low
and open your arms, get excited and praise them as they come into
your arms- offer the hot dog and say good dog. Make sure you reel
in the leash gently.
You will also use this command when they are walking on your left
side only. Have the hot dog piece in your right hand and the leash
in the left hand. Keep gently bringing them back to the side of
your leg and saying "here' - ever so many steps you can give
a hot dog and say "here". Bend down to stop the jumping.
Sometimes if they know you have a hot dog they will try to jump
up. Keep a straight arm on the leash and if needed a little tap
on the head saying "off".
Now there will be times when they are loose and like all puppies
distracted and running around in circles. You can get down low and
clap and say "here". Sometimes even the best puppy will
turn off his ears and run in the wind, therefore other sounds may
be called in to help like a whistle, tapping a bowl, a favorite
squeaky toy…once you get their attention make sure you give
them a reason to come to you. Be very excited, clap, sometimes running
away will get them to chase you. Once you know they have committed
you can stop and praise. This will not last forever, it just shows
the positive behavior instead of scolding them for bad. Eventually
they will only know how to be good. But, remember they are puppies!
Never have them loose anywhere near a road or an area where they
could get hurt. They are fast and it happens in seconds!
SIT
The sit is a command that they will naturally learn at this age
much faster than when they are older. Just by looking up at you
the gravity takes over. You may again have to use positive reinforcement
by gently placing your right hand on their rear back and lifting
their chins up with your left hand , at the same time you are saying
"sit", "good dog". You can also incorporate
a hot dog from your left hand. If they are on the leash you can
use the leash to lift the head up. Later on when they are walking
on your side when you stop they will learn to sit by your side.
Don't worry about this now. One thing to consider is if they begin
to sit on their own you go ahead and say sit. This again reinforces
the command. I am going to mention in this section the DOWN command.
They are smart pups so I believe as they get older this may be a
natural progression with some help. Always begin the Down command
when they are in a sit position. You may have to take their front
legs at first out from under them so they can get the feel of what
you are asking. While you are doing this say the command "Down",
say it one more time once they are down while applying pressure
on their back between their shoulder blades. Don't expect a long
down once you release the pressure say "ok" and let them
get up. While they are in the down praise them.
KENNEL-UP
This command will not only be used for the crate but eventually
when you want them in the car and even when they lay on their dog
bed when they are older. With the high puppy power they still have
they may spin around the crate the 5 times you have said kennel-up
so the best thing to do is take them by the collar and steer their
heads in while saying kennel-up. If it is feeding time you can have
the food ready and use the food as a means to put them in. Right
now food is a good way to train. Once you start feeling less and
less force in putting them you will eventually begin to point and
say kennel-up and they will run in free will. Hot dogs or small
treats can be used for this for a little while. In this section
I would like to also mention crate behavior. The crate is their
down time. Respect their space just like they will be respecting
yours. Remind them it is down time by not talking to them and getting
them to want to play but expect them to stay in there. They are
growing pups so they need their sleep. It is so good for them to
know that is where they can do it. But just because they wake up
in the crate don't quickly run to their rescue. Like a baby in a
crib let them "hang-out" and get comfortable being in
there. This will make such a big difference when they discover your
house is an extension of the crate and when you say kennel-up they
will run in happy. Most older, crate trained dogs you will find
sitting in there with the door open- happy!
LEAVE-IT
This command replaces "no". We do not use "no".
"Leave-it" is a great command for ANYTHING you don't want
them to have or do. Whether it is digging up your flowers, chasing
a squirrel, or simply tugging on the leash when you're walking-"
leave it" is the command you will use. If they have a shoe
in your house try to replace it with something they can have, like
one of their toys. You take the item (Sometimes you may have to
pry the mouth open) and say "leave-it". Then you quickly
replace it with their toy and say "good dog". A puppy's
mouth is NEVER to be on a human's skin. They must learn this now.
We take the puppy's lip and curl it around their teeth and squeeze
it. It will pinch them so they will squeal. That is the only way
they will learn. You can say "leave-it" at the same time.
OFF
This will be used quite a bit with puppies. Just because of their
size, they just can't seem to get close enough. If you bend down
to their level less jumping can occur. But we can't always be on
the ground. So they have to learn now, while they are young, and
won't knock you over. If it is not corrected now, it's behavior
that will hurt someone when they are older. Not to mention no one
enjoys being around a dog that jumps so in the end they get less
attention. But every dog has a different level of sensitivity. Some
dogs are very soft and it doesn't take much. Sometimes your voice
alone is enough. But at this age they don't understand what you
are asking. But eventually all you will have to do is put your hand
out and not even touch them. That is why we have different levels.
Level one- A gentle "tap" on the top of the head and say
"off"
Level two-A flat hand meeting them as they come up saying "off"-
like a basketball
Level three- A flat hand with a "pop" saying 'Off"
Every dog is different on their sensitivity level so start off with
one and if needed go to three. Eventually start moving back to one
until you just use the verbal command and a hand in front. Stay
consistent and they will quickly learn every time they jump they
have discomfort and they will stop. Reinforce the good behavior
by having them go into a sit and then go down to their level and
praise them.
VII. Field Work
Puppy field work is followed by this rule:
"Two retrieves a day keeps the trainer away"
As a Professional Trainer, I have learned the key to making a puppy(
with a working background) a successful gundog all starts NOW. You
can either nurture their natural desire or take it all away. Once
the desire to retrieve is gone it will never come back. So be careful!
No matter how old, we always train for one thing- success.
THE RETRIEVE
1. Get down on the ground and gather puppy from behind by holding
underneath the front shoulders and upper legs. Support puppy so
back legs are on the ground. Face puppy in the direction you want
him to run.
2. Make sure puppy is looking as you roll a tennis ball on cut grass.
3. Release puppy as it is rolling away by saying their name.
4. Do not wait until it stops rolling.
5. Stay low and praise puppy as they pick it up.
6. Encourage the puppy to come back by saying their name and "here"
along with the extra tricks…running backwards, cheering, clapping.
7. If they do come to you with it scoop it up gently and praise
them with love. Make them feel like you gave them the world.
8. Remember ONE MORE and then put them up. You want them wanting
more.
9. As they get older you can begin to hold them by the collar and
have someone throw a small white bumper only a short distance so
they clearly see it. Follow the same guidelines on the return and
quantity- NO MORE THAN TWO.
VIII. Do's and Don'ts
1. Do expose them to different people, sounds, animals, situations,
children, inside and outside environments.
2. Don't put them in a situation where they could get bit by another
dog or even given aggressive behavior. Some puppy classes, dog parks
and other group situations are run by people that don't screen the
dogs. Stay away from group situations where the dogs are loose.
It's not worth it. Wait until you know the dogs and it is a smaller
group play time.
3. Do let them be a puppy. Professional training will begin soon
enough let them enjoy being spoiled.
4. Don't leave them to their own devices. They are a very sociable
breed.
5. Do keep them in a crate in the truck or car. We never want to
see our dogs loose in the back bed of a truck.
6. Don't shoot over your pup! We will gradually transition them
to the sound when it comes in for professional training.
7. Don't let them nibble or bite. Say the command "leave-it"
even if you have to tuck their lip under their own teeth and squeeze.
That will make them squeal a little and they learn their teeth hurt!
IX. Contact Information
We take great pride in the time we spend with our puppies and dogs
in training. This labor of love is second nature. But the one thing
we can not give is undivided attention in a home. That is where
you now come in. We have exposed them to everything. We have taken
them from the young pups where the world seemed so small to fearless
adventurers ready to tackle it. Try to keep that spirit. It will
be such a benefit when they come in for professional training. They
will need to have some rules but remember they are puppies, let
them have a puppyhood! With that said you will surely have questions,
concerns and good stories to tell. We really hope you stay in touch
and insist if you have ANY questions to call. The sooner we address
them the less of a concern they will be.
Double TT British Kennels
Puppy/ Health Questions
Haynes Floyd
620-486-2477 Office
620-200-3939 Cell phone
www.britlabs.com
britlabs@helloearth.us
Sharp Retrievers, Inc.
Training/Behavioral Questions
Graham Sharp
Kansas:
620-431-7887 Home and office
229-942-2393 Victoria's cell phone
229-942-0856 Graham's cell phone
www.sharpretrievers.com
graham@sharpretrievers.com
Georgia:229-268-6878 Home and office
